Drinking tea, especially Pu'er tea, is no simple affair. For many newcomers to the world of Pu'er tea, two common terms used to describe the infusion are “rich” and “thick.” Particularly, the term “thick” can be quite perplexing. Do you fully understand the distinctions between these two terms?
01
What does “rich” mean?
When drinking tea, we often hear comments like: “This tea is really bitter, isn't it too rich?” “I used too much tea, so it turned out too rich.” “I steeped it for too long, making the tea too rich,” etc. Does a bitter and Astringent infusion, with an excessive amount of tea leaves and Steeping time, make it a “rich” tea? The answer is coming up.
First, let's look at the literal meaning of “rich.” In the dictionary, “rich” means dense or having a high concentration of a particular component, opposite to “light.” When we describe tea as being rich, we're referring to the strength of the infusion's flavor. At its core, the richness or lightness of the tea is determined by the polyphenol content. The higher the polyphenol content, the more “rich” the tea will taste to us. Some people associate “bitterness” with “concentration,” because polyphenols are the source of the bitterness in tea.
Let's delve into polyphenols. Polyphenols are a general term for a group of substances composed of multiple compounds, each with its own taste characteristic. These include catechins, which impart a bitter and astringent taste, flavonoids, which are astringent, anthocyanins, which are bitter, and phenolic acids, which are slightly astringent and sour. From this, we can see that bitterness and astringency are the main flavors that make up polyphenols. However, the “bitterness” brought about by polyphenols changes with concentration. A tea with a high concentration of polyphenols will have a sour taste and strong astringency. As the concentration decreases, it presents a slightly stimulating bitterness but with a lingering sweetness. With lower concentrations, there is more of a sweet sensation and less stimulation. Therefore, when we talk about richness or lightness, we're referring to the taste sensations polyphenols give us on our tongues.
02 What does “thick” mean? If you use “thickness” to describe a tea, it suggests you have a solid foundation in tea appreciation. However, many people, while saying it, have a vague understanding of “thickness” and may confuse it with “concentration.” What exactly does “thickness” feel like? How can the sensation be described as “thick”? “Thickness” is the opposite of “thin,” and from a literal standpoint, it conveys a sense of fullness and richness. Unlike “richness,” “thickness” is not primarily related to taste but rather a tactile sensation. Specifically, in the context of tea, “thickness” refers to the tactile sensation of the infusion on the tip of the tongue.
In coffee tasting theory, the explanation for body (or thickness) accurately describes this tactile sensation: “The weight or fullness felt in the mouth. Also refers to the coating sensation left on the palate after swallowing. Coffees with low body go down smoothly with little resistance, while coffees with high body have the opposite effect.” This applies similarly to tea. So, what substances in the tea determine its thickness? The answer lies in soluble, viscous substances found in tea leaves, such as soluble sugars. Soluble sugars aren't just those with a distinct sweetness like glucose and fructose; they also include soluble Pectin, starches, and other substances. These increase the viscosity of the tea, giving it a thick and sticky texture. In addition to soluble sugars, amino acids also play a supporting role in making the tea feel thicker.
The amount of soluble substances is influenced by the raw materials and processing methods. Regarding raw materials, autumn teas contain more soluble sugars than spring teas, and older trees tend to have more soluble sugars and amino acids. Processing-wise, during withering and spreading out to dry, hydrolytic enzymes increase the content of soluble sugars. During rolling, highly viscous pectins coat the tea leaves, increasing the rate of viscous substance extraction during brewing. Additionally, fermentation processes produce large amounts of soluble sugars, which is why ripe Pu'er and black teas tend to be thicker.
03 What does “thickness” imply? We now know that whether a tea has thickness depends on its inherent qualities, specifically the abundance of internal components that can produce a rich flavor when brewed. When evaluating Pu'er tea, the expression of thickness is often considered a key reference point. Typically, high-quality Pu'er teas possess the characteristic of “thickness,” which not only represents the richness of the tea's intrinsic qualities but also determines its potential for aging and developing a richer aroma over time. As consumers, choosing high-quality teas should involve learning to recognize “thickness.”
To determine if a tea has thickness, first consider the raw material. Ancient Tree teas from larger trees tend to be “thicker,” and autumn teas harvested in the fall contain more internal components. You can also refer to the overall characteristics of the raw materials produced in specific regions. Teas with thickness have rich flavors and a strong coating sensation. When the tea moves around in your mouth, the sensation should be clearer. Therefore, we can learn to identify the “thickness” of Pu'er tea through the experience of tasting. When tasting, try to feel the tea in your mouth. After taking a sip, roll it around on your tongue and focus on the surface and the sides near the front, temporarily ignoring feedback from other areas. If you feel a heavy and solid sensation that seeps through your tongue, creating a tactile sensation deeper within, and the tea feels full and viscous, then it is a tea with “thickness.”
Originally published in Pu'er Magazine, September 2020 issue
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