No Storage, No Pu’er

If starting to drink 'er tea and making it an important part of daily drinking habits is the beginning of understanding Pu'er tea, then as our appreciation for Pu'er deepens, we cannot avoid the issue of Pu'er storage, because the concept of “the older, the more fragrant” always tempts tea enthusiasts. The allure of aged tea in the legends of the Pu'er world is even more mysterious and enchanting.

No Storage, No Pu'er-1

In the eyes of veteran tea expert Mr. Gang, “Pu'er tea storage is the key to understanding Pu'er tea.” This detailed article aims to answer questions like “What is the ‘storage' of Pu'er tea? What is good ‘storage'? For Pu'er enthusiasts, resolving these questions can save them from taking many detours on their journey to understand Pu'er tea.”

How do we understand the “storage” of Pu'er tea? Pu'er tea is a post-fermentation tea, and after being pressed into shape (even if it's loose tea), there is a process of storage and aging. Therefore, we can say that the “storage” of Pu'er tea is generated during this later storage and aging process. What is “storage”? “Storage” refers to the warehouse where tea is stored, which has been extended to mean the environment and method of storing tea.

What is good Pu'er tea storage? As mentioned earlier, storage is an essential part of the production of Pu'er tea, and it can also be considered a deep processing step following initial processing. Whether natural storage or traditional storage, dry storage or humid storage, each can be seen as different characteristics of different Pu'er products.

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Traditional storage or humid storage can be regarded as a more complete microbial fermentation-based production method; natural storage or dry storage can be seen as partial microbial fermentation and partial polyphenol oxidation. What constitutes good storage? A type of storage represents the ratio between microbial fermentation and polyphenol oxidation, and different ratios produce different body sensations, tastes, and aromas. Judging whether a tea is well-stored or not reflects consumers' preferences for different storage products and their acceptance of the ratio of microbial fermentation to polyphenol oxidation in a tea.

What are the main factors determining the quality of Pu'er tea storage? We can simply summarize them into six aspects: 1) tea raw material, 2) degree of compression, 3) storage , 4) storage temperature, 5) beneficial microorganisms in the storage environment, and 6) time.

1. Regarding tea raw material. Under the same conditions, different raw materials will undergo transformation at different rates (when making ripe tea, the amount of water added and temperature-humidity control will vary depending on the raw material), so adjustments must be made to the storage environment based on the specific tea.

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2. Regarding the degree of compression. Generally, loosely compressed tea is conducive to post-fermentation, while tightly compressed tea is less so. Common cakes, bricks, and tuocha are usually moderately compressed and of limited thickness, so the post-fermentation of raw tea is predictable. However, newer iron cakes, heart-shaped compressed teas, tube teas, and “thousand taels” teas are very tightly and thickly compressed, and without special treatment, I estimate they would not be very enjoyable even after fifty years.

3. Regarding storage temperature. The empirical data suggests an average temperature between 26°C and 30°C. If the temperature is too high, it may accelerate the aging of the tea, and if it is too high, carbonization may occur. If the temperature is too low, the aging process slows down, reducing economic benefits.

4. Regarding storage humidity. Empirical data indicates a humidity range of 60% to 80%. High humidity can easily cause deterioration of the tea, and low humidity can also slow down the aging process.

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5. Regarding beneficial microorganisms in the storage environment. Often overlooked is the necessity of having sufficient beneficial microorganisms in the storage environment, which is why I believe “without storage, no tea.” Pu'er tea is a post-fermentation tea, and tea that has not undergone post-fermentation can only be called sun-dried . While green tea is not undrinkable, in the eyes of old tea drinkers in Hong Kong, raw tea with its strong tea qi should not be consumed frequently as it can be stimulating to the stomach. Raw tea should be stored in an old warehouse for at least ten years before tasting. A red color and rich taste are likely indicators of whether raw tea has transformed and can be enjoyed over the long term. The post-fermentation process (aging process) of Pu'er tea essentially involves the breakdown of non-water-soluble substances into water-soluble substances under the action of beneficial microorganisms. Pu'er tea is produced in Yunnan but stored in large quantities in places like Hong Kong and Taiwan. Some believe that old warehouses in Hong Kong and Taiwan are crucial for storing good tea, much like how fine wine must be aged in old cellars.

6. Regarding time. Does mastering the above five aspects guarantee the production of good tea? Not necessarily. More challenging is that temperature, humidity, and types and numbers of beneficial microorganisms are all established over time. What temperature, what humidity, and what types of beneficial microorganisms are needed for a piece of tea at what time is something we know little about. If we were to draw a curve representing the formation of a good tea, it would be a curve spanning temperature, humidity, microorganisms, and time in a multi-dimensional space. Compared to the formation of good tea, even with advanced technology, it is difficult to completely replicate a good tea in the real world. From the above analysis, we might derive the following insight: good tea is rare and hard to replicate.

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How to judge the storage condition of a tea most conveniently?

Generally speaking, distinguishing between humid and dry storage methods boils down to “one look, two smells, three checks.” First, look at the surface of the dry tea. If there is a widespread whitening or a lot of continuous small white spots, it is likely that the tea was stored in humid conditions. If the surface of the dry tea is glossy and oily, it is more likely to have been stored in dry conditions.

Second, after brewing, smell the pitcher with the infused tea. Different storage conditions and storage periods will result in different aroma characteristics. For ripe tea: If the aroma contains a “wall peel scent” (sometimes accompanied by a faint ginseng-like aroma), it can generally be judged as a tea stored humidly for between ten and twenty years. If the aroma presents a relatively pure ginseng-like aroma with noticeable transformation, it can generally be judged as a tea stored humidly for over twenty years. The distinct medicinal fragrance that appears in ripe tea occurs only in one type: the “73 Thick Brick” series from the Cultural Revolution era.

For raw tea: A pronounced camphor aroma that does not transform into a clear fruity aroma after six to seven infusions generally indicates humid storage. A light camphor aroma in the first few infusions followed by a clear fruity aroma indicates slightly damp southern dry storage. A greenish flavor in the first few infusions followed by a fruity aroma generally indicates southern dry storage with an age of less than twenty years. A direct fruity aroma in the first few infusions with substantial tea quality indicates dry storage and an age of over fifteen years. An aroma of medicine with noticeable transformation indicates a tea over forty years old, regardless of storage conditions, and is quite valuable.

Third, check the vitality and fermentation level of the leaves. After a full infusion (at least eight to ten infusions), examine the leaves. Based on the color of the leaves combined with the dry tea and aroma, you can determine the degree of transformation of the tea. By combining the degree of transformation with the production time, you can roughly judge the storage conditions. Greenish leaves indicate insufficient transformation, light brown and brown indicate a certain degree of transformation, while dark shiny leaves

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