Amidst the full gaze of spring breezes and the heartwarming aroma of tea, a single leaf reveals a tiny world, while a single cup of tea presents myriad flavors. The perfect balance between temperature and flora makes Lincang a prime tea-growing region. Benefiting from the nourishment of its natural surroundings, Lincang tea retains its original vitality through the test of time.
Today, our editor takes you on a journey to
Yongde County
to “taste” one of Lincang's finest teas – Mangfei tea.
Yongde County is one of the birthplaces of the world's tea trees, with Chinese magnolias and extensive areas of wild, transitional, and cultivated ancient tea trees still growing there. Historical records show that tea cultivation, processing, and consumption began in Yongde County as early as 1384 (the 17th year of the Hongwu period of the Ming dynasty). When it comes to Yongde teas, Mangfei tea, one of the “Four Little Dragons of Lincang” (Bingdao, Xigui, Mangfei, and Daxueshan), is particularly renowned.
Mengban was an important transportation hub for ancient Yongde, leading to Myanmar and the seven river crossings of Nujiang River. Mangfei Village is part of Mengban Township. “Mangfei” is a Dai term meaning “mountain ridge between valleys.” Facing east with ample sunshine and backed by high mountains, Mangfei Village not only has abundant underground water resources but also benefits from the favorable conditions created by the gently flowing Mengban River at its feet. The lush vegetation and dense forests surrounding the tea gardens provide an ideal ecological environment for tea growth.
In this uniquely advantageous environment, Mangfei large-leaf tea thrives. After centuries of cultivation and domestication, Mangfei ancient tea trees have developed their distinct charm, making Mangfei tea stand out among the many tea mountains in Yongde. In 1980, experts from the provincial tea germplasm resource survey team named it “Mengban Mangfei Large-Leaf Group Variety,” which was later officially recognized as an excellent group variety of tea plants at the provincial level.
Mangfei Village consists of five natural villages and eleven villagers' groups, covering 4,950 mu of tea gardens, including 2,850 mu of tea gardens with large trees. Among these, 1,980 mu are concentrated areas of ancient tea trees, most of which are over a century old.
Mangfei tea boasts neat and robust buds, a clear and bright Infusion, a rich and intense flavor, a strong fragrance, quick aftertaste, and a full-bodied mouthfeel. Tea enthusiasts describe it as “sweet, smooth, slightly Astringent, with a noticeable salivation under the tongue and a long-lasting sweet and moist aftertaste in the throat.”
Compared to Bingdao and Xigui, Mangfei tea has been overlooked by tea aficionados for many years. It wasn't until after 2013 that Mangfei tea became more widely known, with prices rising from tens of yuan per kilogram to hundreds of yuan per kilogram.
With 541 households and 2,507 residents, there are now 107 Tea processing facilities in Mangfei Village. To protect these “golden leaves,” the village implements standardized management of the Mangfei tea and tea mountains, establishing a tea cooperative. Strict production standards are enforced from planting and picking to processing, promoting scientific, ecological, and standardized management of the tea gardens and banning the use of chemical fertilizers and pesticides. Additionally, “tea mountain control” measures are implemented, with checkpoints set up to ensure raw material quality, and the “Tea Tracing Chain” system is actively promoted, strictly implementing “one code per Cake.”
Recently, Li Jing, a local tea planting expert who loves playing in bands, has become quite popular. Born and raised in Mangfei Village, Li Jing worked in sales and drove for Didi in Kunming after graduating from university. However, after two years, he returned home to become a “tea farmer” like his father. Through diligent study, he quickly transformed from a complete novice to a knowledgeable local expert in tea cultivation.
Many people like Li Jing have returned to their hometowns in Mangfei Village. Previously, the main source of income for villagers was working outside the village, but as tea prices soared, more and more migrant workers have come back to carefully tend to the previously neglected tea trees, resulting in a significant increase in income.
Reporters: Xiong Zhili, Luo Yan