Wuyi Rock Tea (Da Hongpao) is produced in the Wuyi Mountain area of Fujian Province. The tea plants grow either in rock crevices and ravines or on precipitous cliffs, which contributes to the unique quality of the tea. There are many types of Wuyi Rock Tea, with about 1,000 varieties recorded from ancient times to the present, and Da Hongpao is one of the main varieties.
Wuyi Rock Tea is a semi-fermented tea, with its manufacturing process lying between that of Green Tea and Black Tea. As a result, the finished tea possesses both the fresh fragrance of green tea and the sweet richness of black tea.
Picking: Generally, spring, summer, and autumn teas can be picked, with the standard being one bud with three to four leaves.
Withering (Two Sun-Drying and Two Indoor Cooling): After picking, the fresh leaves are known as tea greens. First, they are evenly spread out in water sieves for “opening the greens,” then placed on withering racks (commonly known as “sun-drying racks”) for “sun-drying”; after sun exposure, the tea greens undergo sifting, are shaken a few times, and then sun-dried for a short while before being moved indoors onto cooling racks, referred to as “cooling”; once the tea greens have cooled, they are re-sun-dried, gently shaken, and gathered together, followed by another cooling period.
Green Making (Shaking and Hand Manipulation): Green making must follow the principle of “looking at the sky to make greens and looking at the greens to make greens.”
After withering, the first shaking takes place, where the tea leaves roll in a spiral within the water sieve, causing the edges to collide and rub against each other, damaging the cell structure and oxidizing polyphenols, which promotes the formation of the tea's color, aroma, and flavor; during the second shaking, the leaf color becomes lighter, and during sifting, the leaves are lightly tapped by hand (commonly known as “hand manipulation”); after two hours of resting, the third shaking occurs using the same method; subsequently, the number of turns gradually increases and the force applied gradually intensifies.
The entire process requires six to seven rounds of green making, taking approximately eight to ten hours. During the final round of green making, the veins become bright, the leaf color turns yellowish-green, red edges appear, and the surface of the leaf bulges into a tortoise-shell shape (commonly known as “spoon-shaped leaves”).
Frying and Rolling: During the double frying and rolling process, the tea develops its distinctive “frog skin-like” appearance and “three-color segments.” The temperature for frying is around 230-260°C, and when frying, the tea greens should not be excessively scattered; after forty to fifty flips, when the leaves become soft like cotton, they are taken out for rolling; during rolling, the tea leaves are pushed back and forth until the juice flows out, the leaves curl into strips, and a strong aroma is released, at which point the clumps are loosened and shaken; the leaves are then returned to the pan for re-frying at a temperature of 200-240°C, and after several more flips, rolling is done again.
Initial Drying: The windows in the drying room must be tightly closed. The tea leaves are evenly spread on a drying tray to a thickness of 2-3 centimeters, and the tray is then placed over the drying pit for about 10-12 minutes, during which time the leaves are turned three times.
Sifting, Spreading, and Sorting: Sifting involves using a sieve to remove yellow and broken pieces; spreading allows the tea to change color, giving it a lustrous appearance, and takes about 5-6 hours; sorting involves removing any remaining tea stalks.
Re-drying: The temperature of the drying tray is around 100°C, and the tea is turned every 20 minutes; after three turns, it is dried for about another 30 minutes until it can be ground into powder with the fingers; it is then slowly simmered over a low fire to adjust the aroma and flavor; when fully dried, the surface of the tea leaves appears lustrous and precious, and the dry tea has floral or caramel aromas.
Bundling: Bundling is done immediately after simmering.
Additional Drying: Commonly known as “pit fire,” this step aims to remove moisture and prevent mold growth.
Storing the Rough Tea: The finished tea is placed in boxes for dry storage.
Wuyi Rock Tea (Da Hongpao) possesses the unique quality of “rocky character and floral fragrance.” Its overall characteristics are: the finished tea has twisted, sturdy, and compact strips with a fresh green-brown color; it has a rich and lasting aroma with orchid-like fragrance; its taste is full-bodied, with a clear and refreshing throat sensation and lingering fragrance; the tea liquor is clear and bright, golden or Orange-yellow in color; the infused leaves are soft and bright with crimson-red edges.
The Qing Dynasty poet Yuan Mei summarized the appreciation of Wuyi Rock Tea as “tea must be from Wuyi, teapot must be Mengchen, and cups must be Ruochen.” In modern life, the small pot brewing method and the covered bowl brewing method have been practiced for a long time; Yixing clay pots retain heat and gather aroma without trapping flavors, while porcelain covered bowls help distinguish aromas. Since the tea material is relatively mature and the aromatic substances in the finished tea have high boiling points, boiling water is used for brewing to facilitate the release of aromas.
The technique for making Wuyi Rock Tea (Da Hongpao) was listed in the first batch of national intangible cultural heritage representative projects in 2006.
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