Savoring Aroma, Freshness, and Terroir
In the warm March of spring, in the deep forests of Yunnan, new shoots of large-leaf tea plants are sprouting, awaiting their annual rendezvous with tea pickers. For thousands of years, the leaves nurtured in these mountains have been making their way to the outside world, a journey eagerly anticipated by tea enthusiasts far and wide in search of that perfect cup of Puer. Much like the coffee industry, which spans from cultivation to processing, roasting, and extraction, every step in the production of Puer tea – from planting to processing, storage, and brewing – is guided by national standards.
We spoke with various participants in the tea industry, including seasoned tea makers from the “State Factory Era,” tea merchants who deal with aged teas and export, native tea producers with a deep affection for pure single-origin teas, and companies striving for full traceability across the supply chain. We learned that finding a good cup of Puer often requires wisdom beyond the established standards.
A Leaf, a Universe
Zheng Jixiong, a senior engineer in tea manufacturing and a master tea maker of national renown in Puer tea, exudes an aura of scientific rigor typical of his field. He always supplements his statements with empirical data, which might serve as a counterbalance to the more anecdotal nature of Puer tea discourse. Zheng, who has extensively explored Yunnan's tea regions, wholeheartedly agrees with Lu Yu's observation in The Classic of Tea that “the character of tea changes according to the soil.” He elaborates enthusiastically: “Even on the same mountain, tea produced at different locations can vary in flavor. We conducted thorough tests and investigations. For example, the soil on the peak of Yiwu contains borax, which reduces pest infestations and improves overall tea quality due to its high boron content.”
The soil is just one factor influencing the intrinsic qualities of tea leaves. The large-leaf tea trees rooted in these deep forests continuously absorb life's energy amidst sunlight and rain. Factors such as sunlight, temperature, humidity, and altitude all influence the growth of each tea plant, thereby shaping its unique character and flavor profile.
Tea grown in different environments exhibits distinct aromas and flavors. Some are sweet, some bitter, some gentle, and some stimulating. These pronounced regional characteristics are particularly evident in young Puer raw teas, making them ideal for savoring aroma, freshness, and terroir.
“The flavor profiles of young Puer raw teas can vary greatly. For instance, the teas from the classic regions of Menghai, Mengku, and Yiwu differ significantly. The relatively high content of polyphenols and low amino acid levels in Menghai tea give it a bold taste, while the lower polyphenol and higher amino acid content in Mengku tea result in a sweeter and more fragrant flavor, with a woody aroma in spring and a fresh, sweet fragrance. The polyphenol and amino acid levels in Yiwu tea fall between the two, creating a harmonious blend,” explains Zheng Jixiong.
Zheng believes that for younger Puer raw teas, a clear and fresh aroma should be the dominant characteristic, with fruity or honey-like scents emerging only after aging and Fermentation. “This is based on our long-term experience and data from front-line tea making,” he adds. The definition of a fresh aroma is complex yet simple, akin to a symphony of spring where all things come to life, and floral and fungal scents evoke a sense of freshness. These aromas are hallmarks of specific regions, especially when it comes to pure single-origin teas.
Historical records attest to the existence of the six great tea mountains, and today the concept of “terroir” has become widely accepted in the Puer tea world, with the belief that different mountains produce different flavors. “These renowned terroirs have been selected through history and further validated by science,” Zheng Jixiong notes.
Fenghaozhai, with its deep-rooted connection to the Bingdao tea region, embodies this sentiment. Its founder, Feng Jianping, is a native of Bingdao and a descendant of the local Dai ethnic chieftain. Vice General Manager Zhao Wanli explains, “Historically, Bingdao tea was the preferred choice for diplomatic affairs among the Dai chieftains. Since 1485, the tea has been carefully cultivated and selected by the locals, allowing its optimal flavor to be shared with the world.” Upholding the philosophy of benefiting future generations through the legacy of ancestral tea cultivation, the natural environment of Bingdao, where grass remains green throughout winter and flowers bloom year-round, produces tea leaves with a thick and soft texture, robust buds, and a fresh, sweet, and refreshing flavor in new teas.
The Multitude of Craftsmanship in the World of Puer Tea
“How to find a good cup of Puer?” This question not only puzzles consumers and tea drinkers but also permeates the entire Puer tea industry. As Zhao Wanli puts it, “Not betraying the mission bestowed upon each fresh leaf by nature is the original intention of the tea makers at Fenghaozhai, and the quality of raw materials needs to be complemented by skilled craftsmanship.”
The boundaries between different Chinese Tea categories may be blurred in terms of taste experience, but the requirements for processing techniques are clearly defined. In the national standard for geographical indication products of Puer tea published in 2008, a concise and straightforward process for Puer tea production is outlined. Mastering each step meticulously is the focus of tea makers as they seek to create their ideal cup of Puer.
The processing techniques for Puer tea can be roughly divided into “traditional” and “innovative” approaches. Traditional methods generally adhere to the standards for geographical products, differing mainly in the degree of manual versus mechanized processes. Innovative methods, on the other hand, actively cater to or lead market trends by experimenting with new techniques at every stage.
For Fenghaozhai, tradition holds significant value. They harvest tea according to the weather and process it according to its characteristics using ancient methods passed down through generations to produce handmade Puer teas. This tradition carries a simplicity, warmth, and a sense of craftsmanship, evoking imagination and memories.
At the same time, Fenghaozhai focuses on specific Puer tea regions. “We specialize in pure single-origin teas, aiming to provide consumers who prefer these types with classic terroir flavors. We do not intentionally mask or highlight certain characteristics. For example, within the Bingdao area, some teas may have a relatively strong astringency, but this is part of their authentic flavor. We do not use processing techniques to amplify strengths or mitigate weaknesses. Instead, we emphasize allowing consumers to understand the unique tastes of each terroir, fulfilling their expectations and fantasies about regional flavors, and continuing the dream of sharing our best teas as Bingdao natives,” says Zhao Wanli.
Mixing pure single-origin teas is another topic of discussion in Puer tea processing, but Zheng Jixiong sees it as a traditional practice rather than innovation. During the “State Factory” period, Puer teas were commonly blended using leaves from different regions, with pure single-origin teas being less common. Today, blending remains relevant. “Blending is not simply mixing. It is a quality adjustment based on sensory evaluation of raw materials from different regions in Yunnan, long-term maturation and transformation patterns, analysis of major intrinsic substances, and practical experience in production and storage,” Zheng Jixiong explains, summarizing his insights.
Discovering a good cup of Puer is both a consumer demand and a guiding principle for tea makers like Zheng Jixiong. After all, blending is one of the few artistic pursuits for rigorous and scientific tea makers.
“Bitter